Retinol or retinal: which to choose and how to start without irritation

Almost every client who comes to the centre has tried retinol at some point, and half of them gave up in the second week. Not because it doesn't work, but because nobody explained how to start. This is the explanation.

What each one is

Retinol and retinal are two forms of vitamin A. To act, the skin has to convert them into retinoic acid, the active form:

• Retinol needs two conversions. It's the most studied, the most widespread and the one with the most strength options.
• Retinal (retinaldehyde) needs only one. At the same concentration it's more direct, and in the available studies it tends to be tolerated as well as or better than retinol.

In practice both do the same thing: they speed up skin renewal, refine texture, help with fine lines, pores and tone. The difference is how fast you reach the result and how your skin copes with it. Every product with these actives is gathered on the shop's retinol and retinal page.

What strength to start with

The one you can keep up every week for months. A 0.3 % retinol used consistently is more useful than a 1 % you abandon on day three.

• Never used retinoids: retinol at 0.2–0.3 % or retinal at 0.05 %.
• Used it before and tolerated it: retinol at 0.5 % or retinal at 0.1 %.
• Sensitive or reactive skin: start with bakuchiol or a low-strength encapsulated retinal, and go up only if there's no redness.

Encapsulated or slow-release formulas (the ones we use in cabin from iS Clinical or Medik8, for instance) irritate less because they release the active gradually.

How to introduce it

This is the schedule we give in consultation:

1. Weeks 1 and 2: two nights a week, not consecutive. Clean, dry skin, a pea-sized amount for the whole face, avoiding the eye contour and the sides of the nose.
2. Weeks 3 and 4: three nights a week if there's no flaking or stinging.
3. From week 5: alternate nights. Many skins stay here forever and that's perfect.
4. Daily use: only if after two months the skin is comfortable. Getting there isn't compulsory.

After retinol, a cream with ceramides seals and soothes. If it dries you out, apply the cream first and retinol on top (the "sandwich" technique): it slows absorption a little and improves tolerance a lot.

What not to combine

On the same night you use retinol, skip exfoliating acids (glycolic, salicylic) and pure-acid vitamin C. It isn't dangerous, it's unnecessary and adds irritation. Spread them out: vitamin C in the morning, retinol three nights, a gentle acid on another night if your skin asks for it.

And sunscreen, every morning, no exceptions. Retinol makes skin more sun-sensitive for as long as you use it.

When to stop

• Redness that doesn't settle by the next day, stinging when you apply moisturiser or flaking in patches: stop for three or four days, hydrate, and restart less often.
• Pregnancy, breastfeeding or trying to conceive: no retinoids. Bakuchiol is the alternative we usually suggest.
• Before a peel, laser or microneedling at the centre: we'll ask you to pause it five to seven days. And afterwards, until the skin recovers.

An honest tip

Retinol is a mid-term active. What you see at three weeks is skin adapting; what you see at three months is the result. If you're torn between two products, take the lower strength with the nicer texture: consistency decides more than the number on the label. And if you have a treatment booked at the centre, tell us at the consultation so we can adjust the calendar.

Written by the Jade Esthétique aesthetician team. These are general guidelines; for skin with conditions (rosacea, dermatitis, acne under medical treatment) check with your dermatologist before starting.